I was reading one of the sites when I chanced upon an article and inspired me to make an entry on sun protection.
I must once again stress the importance of sunblock to all of you people out there. Especially to people with fair skin like me. Studies have shown that fair skin people are more likely to get sun burns as compared to dark skin friends.
However, this does not mean that dark skin people are not proned to the effects of UVA.
The sun
The sun emits three kinds of rays. UVA, UVB and UVC.
UVC is mainly blocked out by the ozone layer and we don't really need to worry about that although the depletion of the ozone layer means that technologies have to be invented to protect against UVC in the future.
UVB is the one that burns the skin and gives the red burning on the skin after exposure to it.
UVA tends to penetrate the skin deeper and although the skin damage is not apparent (usually it gives a very nice even tan), it has a long term effect. It is the long term effect that is more worrying. UVA is the main culprit for premature aging, photoaging, wrinkles, blotching, yellowing and spots.
Long term exposure to the sun without protection of any sort could also lead to skin cancer.
Sunscreens.
Sunscreens are best protection against UV rays and here is the breakdown.
Sunscreens work by either reflecting off the UV rays or by absorbing the rays through the use of physical filters or chemical filters.
Broad spectrum filters refers to the ability to protect the skin against both UVA and UVB rays. The
photostability refers to whether the compound would break down when exposed to sunlight. If the active ingredients (filters) of the sunscreen are not photostable, then repeat and frequent application is recommended. Studies have shown that if the the suncreen is not photostable and frequent applications is not done, it might do even MORE harm to the skin than protect it.
Physical Filters are usually opaque minerals pigments that reflect and scatter UV rays over a broad spectrum of wavelengths that include UVB, UVA, visible light and infra red rays. These are micronised metal salts in the form of titanium and zinc oxide and are usually combined with chemical filters. Comparison between zinc oxide and titanium dioxide shows that zinc oxide is superior for UVA protection in the 340-380 nm range (UVA-I) and tends to be less pasty on the skin. It has been said that physical filters clog pores but they are gentle on sensitive skin since they are inert and photostable.
Chemical filters absorb the sun rays and convert them into heat. There are several types of chemical filters and they have varying properties. Being chemicals, they are usually light and invisible. Unfortunately, there are some which are not photostable and is sometimes associated with sensitivity issues.
There is a alot of studies in the area of chemical filters as a lot of them are not photostable and can cause skin irritations.
There are also known cases of chemical filters degrading each other when formulated together.The ones that are well known on the market for being photostable would be Mexoryl (L'oreal) , Tinosorb (Ciba), 4-Methylbenzilidene Camphor and Uvinul.
Formulations with avobenzone needs to be stabilised with
* octocrylene
* 4-methylbenzylidene camphor
* tinosorb s
* tinosorb m
* butyloctyl salicylate
* hexadecyl benzoate
* butyloctyl benzoate
* mexoryl sx
* diethyhexyl 2,6-naphthalate
European sunscreens with Mexoryl or Tinosorb
by Barbara KwiatkowskaManufacturers:-
TINOSORB S / TINOSORB M- Avene
- Bioderma
- Castalia
- Caudalie
- Cosmedex
- Daylong
- Ducray
- Evaux
- Galenic
- Johnson's Suncare Baby
- Laboratories SVR
- Laviderm
- Lierac
- Mustela
- Nivea
- Oenobiol
- RoC
- Synchroline
MEXORYL SX (water soluble) / MEXORYL XL (Oil Soluble)
Patent by French company L'oreal- Biotherm
- Garnier
- Lancome
- La Roche-Posay (Anthelios Fluid Sunscreens)
- L'Oreal
- Vichy
**L'oreal, Lancome, La Roche Posay, Biotherm and Vichy are some locally available brands that offer Mexoryl sunscreens. The more lightweight ones include Lancome UV Expert, L'oreal UV Perfect, and LRP Anthelios Fluide Extreme.
If your sunscreen contains chemical filters, be sure to apply 15-30 minutes before exposure to the sun. If it contains only physical filters, applying it just before exposure is fine.In addition to the active ingredients, the 'vehicle' is also very important.
-Emulsions (cream or lotions):
Most acceptable photoprotectors. Creams spread easily and offer better photoprotection than lotions. Water-in-oil emulsions gives up more moisture, offers better protection and more water and sweat resist.
- Sticks are excellent sunscreens for lips.
- Gels are unstable and poorly water resistant.
Sensitivity and Comedogenicity
In addition to chemical filters causing sensitive issues, the vehicle is also a main factor. Many cream formulations are highly emollient and likely to be comedogenic when used by an acne-prone person. Lotions (laits) are somewhat less so. European and USA gels or sprays tend to be the lightest and least comedogenic, along with many Asian lotion formulations. If you are breakout-prone, look for a gel, a spray, or an Asian sunscreen.
SPF, PA, PPD and Boots Star Ratings
After understanding the make-up of a sunscreen, another problem comes up to choosing one. So what is SPF, PA and all the words on the bottles mean??
SPF: Sun Protection Factor
The SPF rating is primarily the amount of UVB protection the sunscreen provides. The rating (SPF15, SPF20, etc.) indicates how much longer a person can be in the Sun before burning than when not wearing sunscreen.
Example:
if I can stay in the sun for 8 minutes before burning starts without a sunscreen, an SPF 50 sunscreen means that I can in the sun for 400 mins (8mins*50) without getting a burn. Frequent application is encouraged to provide higher protection but it does not mean that applying more and you can stay in the sun longer.
** Although American FDA advice is SPF 15 for normal usage, many dermetologist argue that at least SPF 30 to be used. There are also some debate on SPF50++ on the capabilities of the product and consumers being misled.
PA, PPD, PFA
PA, PPD and PFA are usually used as a measure of protection against UVA. There is still no international standards to how protection is measure and neither how much is enough.
Products made for the Asian market typically include the Japanese PA rating (PA+, PA++, PA+++). You will see more of IPD and PPD ratings on european products. Apparently PA+++ corresponds to a PPD rating of at least 8, with PPD 15 being the ideal minimum. PA ratings are derived from PFA (Protection Factor A) values and below is the breakdown:-
PFA Value : PA (Protection grade of UVA)
2 or more but less than 4 : PA+
4 or more but less than 8 : PA++
8 or more : PA+++
However, the IPD, PPD and PA rating systems are based on in vivo test methods, and are not regarded to be as reliable as in vitro rating systems such as the Australian Standard (The expression of the results are carried out as a percentage of UVA radiation absorbed by the sun product) or the Boots Star Rating System (England) (latter as seen on Boots sunscreens: *, **, ***, ****).
In Vivo:-
* IDP method (Immediate Pigment Darkening)
* PPD method (Persistent Pigment Darkening)
* APF method (Erythemal UVA- Protection Factor)
* PPF method (Phototoxic Protection Factor)
In-vitro test methods:-
* Australian Standard AS,
* the Boots Star Rating system
* the Broad Spectrum Rating
* APP–Method / UVA-Protection Percentage
Examples of UVA Protection labelling:-
* Contains UVA-protection
* Broad-Spectrum protection PA+-PA+++ (Asian)
* B20A6
* SPF60-IPD 55-PPD 12 (European)
European sunscreens with high PPD ratings and multiple chemical UVA filters are far more protective than the best currently formulated Asian and USA sunscreens.They can provide:
* at least 3 times as much protection as the most protective USA formulations
* at least 3 times as much protection in UVA as a product that employs only physical UVA filters
* probably 3 times the protection of the most protective Asian formulations
The preponderance of evidence from over 140 primary medical studies suggests that using the highest UVA protection is more important for cancer prevention and minimization of photodamage than avoidance of chemical UVA filters.
Asian formulas:
Look for a formulation that has the rating PA+++. This corresponds to a PPD protective factor of at least 8. If you seek a higher PPD rating, you should consider European formulations.
After all that is said, these are some of the products that I think is suitable and available locally.
Kiss Me Sunkiller series
Biotherm White Detox UV
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Fluid series
Vichy sunscreens
Avene
L'oreal UV Perfect
Remember: It may seem a little expensive to purchase good sunscreens but think of the money that you will save later on wrinkle and uplifting creams. It is never too late to protect yourselves. And that includes the male counterparts too!!!
Sources:
http://www.dermatology.org.my/resources/res03.asphttp://forums.cozycot.com/showthread.php?t=5631http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/iyh-vsv/life-vie/sun_soleil_e.htmlhttp://www.realself.com/blog
